Braving the Santa Cruz Trek
30 miles, more than 5,000 feet of elevation gain, and a maximum altitude of 15,583 feet – The Santa Cruz Trek was a calf-burning, hyperventilating, beautifully rewarding experience. After a week in Caraz for my second Peace Corps health training, and reuniting with fellow volunteers, I set off on the 3-day backpacking trek with two buddies. The trail started in Vaquería, about a 3-hour drive from Yungay (only 20 minutes from my site). It ended in Cashapampa, a 1-hour drive from Caraz (also 20 minutes from my site – needless to say, I once again feel pretty darn lucky to be living where I am).
Each day consisted of about 10 miles and 7 hours of walking. Day 1 was a gradual incline, with the last hour foreshadowing the brutality that we would face in Day 2. After camping along snow-capped mountains that first night, we set off at 8am the next day for 2 hours of a straight uphill climb. In 2 hours, we hiked 2 miles for a total elevation gain of 2,000 feet in order to reach Punta Union, the highest point of our trek. Before starting the climb, I remember thinking how the mountain range looked like a literal wall that we had to scale … it was hard to imagine how we were going to do it without making it a rock-climbing expedition. Nonetheless, there was a way, and I arrived at the top huffing and puffing and with legs of Jell-O. As I stepped through the mountain pass, I was hit with a vast, never-ending view of the laguna-spotted valley below. It was magnificent and breathtaking and quite cold and so many other adjectives. We sat there for a bit, taking it all in as the huge, snow-capped mountains around us made the occasional, eerie, distant sound of an unseen avalanche.
From that point on, the trek was essentially all downhill. They say you get hit with altitude sickness on your way down, and that’s what happened to me. For a bit there, I went “dark” – a term I learned from Campbell’s military buddies to describe the mental state when you hate your situation and just have to quietly fight your internal demons and try not to think until you get to the light at the end of the tunnel. I was nauseous, battling diarrhea that started the night before, and was debating at what point I might need to pull over and throw up. Luckily, I made it through. I could barely stomach the 2-day old, soggy PB&J roll-up that day for lunch, and instead spent my break laying down and contemplating the situation I had put myself in. As the saying goes, “this too shall end”, and end it did. Eventually, I came back into the light and the rest of our trip was a breeze. The company I had was amazing – we talked of old stories, our hometowns and upbringings, social issues, embarrassing moments, broken bones, and more – the endless conversations that only days in nature and no cell phones can bring about.
We set up camp for the 2nd night, cooked our instant ramen and canned tuna (which I believe was the culprit of my intestinal issues), made a fire, roasted odd-tasting marshmallows, and warmed up our hands and toes as we looked at the stars. After my friend Lucas read 2 chapters of Narnia from his tent to put us to sleep (as he did the night before as well), I woke up in the middle of the night, and despite the almost freezing temperatures, unzipped my tent to take a look at the night sky – and boy oh boy I did not regret it. It was impossible to know what time it was, but the sky was perfectly clear and full of bright twinkles.
Day 3, we only had 8 miles of downhill to go. We knocked it out in 4 hours, and found our way to the small town of Cashapampa, where we shotgunned a beer as we waited for a car to take us back to Caraz. The old man next to us couldn’t help but laugh at the delincuent gringos, but there was no better way to end a 3-day trek, if you ask me. Now three days since returning to Pueblo Libre, my calves are still in a recovery process.
This week is chill – everyone is preparing for the anniversary this weekend, which kicks off Friday with a day of volleyball, soccer, and beer, and will go through Monday. School is basically nonexistent, as each day is full of games, competitions, and rehearsals for dances yet to be performed. And, in most important news, Kim and Ken get here in only 2 days! Hard to believe the time is actually here, 9.5 months of waiting. Stay tuned for Lucie and Padres adventures.
9 thoughts on “Braving the Santa Cruz Trek”
What an awesome adventure! ♥️
My dear intrepid wanderer,
I must say, your thrilling escapade along the Santa Cruz Trek has me both breathless and utterly entertained. Scaling 30 miles with a towering elevation gain of over 5,000 feet, culminating at a dizzying 15,583 feet – what an audacious endeavor! Your tale is a delightful blend of calf-burning agony and soul-stirring reward, all set against the backdrop of the majestic Andes while contemplating vomiting!
The sheer audacity of tackling that monstrous incline on Day 2, only to find yourself at the peak, gasping for air with legs of Jell-O – it’s nothing short of heroic. And to be greeted by the panoramic splendor of a laguna-spotted valley, flanked by snow-capped sentinels emitting eerie avalanches? Magnificent! Your vivid portrayal made me feel as if I was right there, clutching my sides and marveling at the view.
Ah, altitude sickness, that unwelcome companion of high-altitude adventures. Your description of going “dark,” battling through waves of nausea and the dreaded diarrhea, while grimly holding onto the hope of brighter moments ahead – truly admirable, if not slightly mad.
Campfire camaraderie, instant ramen, dubious canned tuna, and those peculiar marshmallows (Pat, I’d like to solve the diarrhea puzzle!) – these are the moments that forge lifelong memories. Your friend Lucas’ bedtime readings of Narnia under the stars sounds utterly charming, a perfect touch to end the rugged days. Waking in the frigid night to gaze upon a sky brimming with stars, despite the chill – enchanting.
As you now bask in the relative calm of your town’s festivities, awaiting the arrival of Kim and Ken, may your calves find some solace and your spirit remain ever buoyant. I eagerly anticipate hearing about the forthcoming “Lucie and Padres” adventures!
With a tip of the hat and a twinkle in the eye,
– Frederic
PS… La Madre is not a fan of spiders. You might take proactive actions to avoid an encounter.
Dear Baron Frederic Pembroke, Viscount of Hardy, thank you for thy insightful dissection of my blog. I always look forward to your marvelous descriptors and attentive responses (I think you nailed the diarrhea puzzle!). More to come soon recounting my parents’ trip out here.
P.S… Kim did not see any spiders (in my room, that is). We did have a couple frog friends infiltrate out room in Iquitos, as well as a 6 foot boa circling the premises of our lodge (not to mention the 7 foot anaconda that we also came across along the river). I think she became just a little desensitized to snakes this trip.
Hey Lucie,
This was my favorite post. You are a strong writer and all your posts have been great. On this one, I almost felt that I was there with you on the trek.
Tim
Thanks Tim!!
Thank you again for sharing your story. The pictures are beautiful. It is remarkable the elevation you were climbing as we have as our highest peak being Mt Rainier at 14420 feet. You were well above that. Congratulations, that is quite an achievement.
My daughter Claire left for PC Rwanda 3 weeks ago and is loving it. We read aloud your blog a few days before she left, as she wanted to get a feel for what to expect during training. I tried to convince her to reach out to you, but she said it would be weird. Oh well, when you get old, you don’t care anymore about being weird. Surprisingly, she already knows her site. They were told only 2 weeks into training. She is going to be living on a compound with nuns. Now that is a new one for me. Never heard of PC volunteers being placed in a nunnery. Claire is thrilled as it just adds another layer of cultural experience. Since Claire has classical text book dyslexia, she prefers to send audio clips home vs blogging. Her stories have been hilarious. I’ll share if you ever want to listen to another PCV experience.
It’s also great to hear your parents are coming to visit. I’ve followed them on facebook while in Vietnam. Such great work your dad does.
I’m looking forward to your next installment, let the adventure continue.
That is so amazing for Claire! I’m happy she is having a good time thus far, and crazy that she already knows her site. I found out 3 months in.
Hi Lucie,
Thanks for another great installment of Llama Lore. Your description of your trek was very moving. I marvel at your tenacity and grit to be able to gut through such a difficult journey. I liked the fact that you could appreciate how wonderous that experience was despite the adversity you endured those 3 days. I hope you are enjoying your parents – we’ll look forward to their stories of Peru (and elsewhere!) in a few weeks at Lake Anna. Thank you for your service. Keep up the wonderful work that you do.
Thanks for reading Bill! My parents told me they are going to Lake Anna after getting home. I am VERY jealous and look forward to the day I get to return there.